Sunday, November 25, 2012

Trench coat plans!

A serious Bur6erry ;) knockoff has been on my to-do list for a long time: ever since Michael had a sale of the raincoating fabric, which I think was some time in early 2008.

Fabric:
The fabric is amazing. It's made out of two layers of cotton twill bonded together, one plain colour, the other patterned in a nice tan/black/white/burgundy stripe.  Both sides are waterproof and shed water beautifully. [Edit: when I started to wear the coat I discovered the double thickness and waterproofing make the coat very windproof as well, and consequently surprisingly warm.]

I bought three lengths, in tan, red, and blue, all from Michael's, plus a length of matching lining from Denver Fabrics.  I still have the receipt for the latter, dated June 2008!  
Tan coating on the right (4.8 m) with matching rayon lining (2.4 m) on the left.
Sky blue (1.6 m) and fire engine red  (3.0 m)
I'm not quite sure why I got these lengths. It was in the early days of my sewing, and I was building up a stash, maybe? Or, probably more likely, I had had no idea whatsoever what lengths were needed for say, a coat (the tan), or a jacket (the red)?   I think the blue was destined for my baby boy, but ahem, he's much bigger than I now, way too big now for such a miserly length to be useful for him.  But, blue combined with the tan could make a colour-blocked jacket perhaps. 

I love how water beads on this fabric - clearly it's been waterproofed!
Patterns:  
I have two - the Simplicity 4084 (Threads) and McCall's M5525.  I know there are others - Jalie, Marfy, and Burda, and may find them eventually for info purposes, but I plan on using a combo of the two I have.  


Alterations:

I like the M5525 upper back yoke and front gunflap, and the rain tab on the collar stand.  I prefer 4084's two piece sleeve, the direction of the side front pocket welts, and the buckle on the belt.  In addition, instead of what these patterns provide, I plan to make fold-over epaulettes (skinny underside), buckled rather than buttoned sleeve tabs, hanging tabs on the belt, and four instead of two belt holders.  

The under collar will be bias-cut and show the wrong side.  Buttons and buckles will be classic horn style.  Top stitching?  perhaps burgundy, to match the thin stripe of the underside and lining.  

I know some of you out there have used this cloth - I'd love to post links to those successful projects, so if you know where they are, please post in the comments section - thanks!  I'd also love to hear your comments and advice - this is a big project and your help will definitely go a long way to giving it justice!

1 comment:

  1. I've got this fabric in black and the lining, too. Both were purchased in 2008 from G Street. I've also got a Burberry wool perfect for a zip-out lining. I found that in Philadelphia about 18 months ago. All of it mocks me from my stash.

    I want to make a Burda trench and even started testing out one of their patterns about a year ago but put it aside when I felt overwhelmed with the number of decisions I needed to make, like length, style of sleeve tabs, etc. How fortunate for you that you already know what you want!

    Here is a link to a discussion about that fabric at Stitcher's Guild.
    http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,4623.0.html
    I didn't read through all five pages again today, but I do have a recollection that someone noted the fabric is somewhat difficult to ease and that raglan sleeves might be a better choice. I haven't tested this out myself.

    I look forward to following your progress. Maybe I will even work up the nerve to give it another go.

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